Wet-To-Dry Eye Shadow: A Guide

Wet-To-Dry Eye Shadow: A Guide

Emily Ratajkowski Masters the Sexy-Chic Look

Source: There are many elements of Charlotte D'Alessio's life that read like a teenager's fairy tale. Instagram didn't exist when I was in high school, but I imagine I'd be pretty fascinated by the beautiful, leggy 17-year-old with more than 174,000 followers and a Wilhelmina Models contract, too. For the legions of aspiring Cool Teens™, D'Alessio, who has been modeling full-time for the last year, is living the dream — though her Cinderella story has been anything but conventional. At Coachella in 2015, pictures of D'Alessio (above, right) and her friend, 18-year-old model Josie Canseco (left), flooded the Internet, winding up on places like the festival's official Twitter and The Cobra Snake's Instagram, among others. BuzzFeed spoke to D'Alessio soon after, resulting in a viral article that has since garnered 1,479,600 views. Wilhelmina reached out to D'Alessio from there, and the rest is history. In the 12 months since D'Alessio was discovered, the Canada native has landed a slew of commercial campaigns, left Beverly Hills High School to pursue homeschooling and launched a YouTube channel with her friend and fellow model, Abby Champion. And with a secret project in the works for this summer, I imagine that D'Alessio's stake in the California modeling pantheon will only deepen. On the eve of Coachella 2016's first weekend, I hopped on the phone with D'Alessio to get caught up on the last year of her life, from her social media strategy to her dream campaign. You obviously gained a lot of attention at Coachella last year. What can you tell me about your experience there? I went with my friend Josie — it was my first year going — and we barely took photos. I think we took 10 photos, but people really responded to them. They ended up everywhere. I saw them on Facebook, and not just [from] friends, but random people posting them. And then The Weeknd and the Coachella Twitter reposted [one of their photos]. It was so surreal because I was just a normal girl from Canada who was going to Coachella. I had, like, 16,000 [Instagram] followers, and now it's [174,000]. Coachella really got me started in modeling. Wilhelmina reached out to me from the [BuzzFeed] article — that's how they saw me. Fragrance is great, but it's hard to write or read about because your computer screen isn't scratch and sniff—also because I can't talk about base notes or top notes without feeling like a fancy sommelier. I prefer to think of fragrance in terms of anthropology, which is much more fun. Have you ever thought about your personal fragrance history? Well, here's mine. <img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-31" src="http://christina.fuelthemes.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/02.jpg" alt="02" width="770" height="575" /> And when Wilhelmina reached out to you, how did you feel about going forward with the process? Basically every single one of my friends in L.A. is a model, with Next or Wilhelmina or whatever it is. I was the non-model in the friend group because I wanted to go to UCLA. I didn't have that much of an interest — well, I had an interest, but I didn't think I would be successful so I didn't really pursue it. When they asked me to come in, I went with my dad because I was 16. I almost didn't sign because I was so scared. But I'm happy I ended up signing with them, because they've been a really great agency. I had the contract in my room for two days — like, I was scared they were going to tell me to cut my hair or lose weight or something like that, but they've been so supportive. They never told me to change anything. Fifth Grade: Tommy Boy I'm not kidding, I won Tommy Boy after I aced a quiz contest in Sunday School. The ultimate bounty. If you find yourself deep in the attic of my parent's house, and you pay close attention, you might be able to smell it. Puberty: Abercrombie and Fitch Fierce Don’t even pretend like you didn’t. College: Kenzo Homme Sport My college years were timed with the heyday of the Kenzo sweatshirt, so this was a very fancy scent to own. You can now buy it for $30 on Amazon. I can look back at them like a tiny museum of me that smells really good—literally, because I still have them all. But enough about me and how (great) I smell. I want to know your fragrance history—tell me what scents you love and why you love them. Tell me when you wear them, and how you apply them, and why they're special to you. Tell me everything. —Brennan Kilbane Photo via ITG.

Wet-to-dry eye shadows need not be complicated. While it might sound like yet another technique one must master in order to navigate a makeup counter, perhaps it’s better to think of it as a two-for-one deal.

Wear it dry, and you’ve got your standard dusting of color—classic and predictable (in a good way). But wet! Wearing it wet opens a whole new world of opportunity. “What you’re doing is bringing out the pigmented nature of the shadow,” makeup artist Vincent Oquendo says. “Whenever I wet an eye shadow, it’s when I really want it to pop—but it really has to be a special kind of product to be able to blend after it sets. Because a lot of the times when it sets, you get streaking.” Nobody wants that. In order to avoid any wet shadow mishaps, follow these guidelines:

Product

It's like insurance, Vincent says. "You're doubling your wearability." — It’s like insurance, Vincent says. “You’re doubling your wearability.”

First, go with the obvious: any eye shadow labeled wet-to-dry. The Nars Dual-Intensity line is the standout—the singles come in 12 different shimmery shades, and there’s a corresponding brush (then there’s the newly released Dual Intensity Blush line, which was all over Fashion Week—but that’s a product for another post). Burberry also makes a few very versatile shades specifically for this in their Wet & Dry Silk Shadows. And the technique-specific eye shadow category isn’t just a ploy to get you to buy more product. “You can’t just use any eye shadow for this,” Vincent says. “Certain ones will harden up on top and become unusable because they’re not made for this.”

Baked shadows are also fair game—we’re fans of Laura Mercier’s Baked Eye Colour Wet/Dry and Lorac’s Starry-Eyed Baked Eye Shadow Trio in particular.

For more advanced players, Vincent suggests moving on to straight pigment (MAC or even OCC’s Pure Cosmetic Pigments). With the added moisture, they’ll become easier to layer with other products. For a look with more depth, try using a cream shadow as a based before swiping with a wet powder shadow. “It’s like insurance,” Vincent says. “You’re doubling your wearability.”

Brush
This all depends on exactly what you want to do. “Mind the resistance,” Vincent says, particularly if you’re looking for uniform color across the lid. “I tend to recommend a blender brush, which is the brush that looks like a feather duster. If you do it with a stiff brush, you’re defeating yourself before you even start. The joy of a wet-to-dry is you have to get it right amount of product loaded up, and then it blends itself. If the brush is too stiff, it will leave the shadow streaky and then much harder to control.”

However, if tightlining or waterlining is in the cards, a much thinner brush is required accordingly.

Liquid
Do not, repeat, do not put eye drops, water, or any other sort of liquid directly on your eye shadow. This’ll screw up your product for later use. “Lately, I’ve been wetting the brush with the Glossier Soothing Face Mist, but Evian Mineral Water Spray is good for sensitive eyes,” Vincent says. If the top of your powder does get a little hardened by wet application, there’s a trick to remove it: Get a clean mascara spoolie and “exfoliate” your compact, Vincent recommends. This won’t crack the compact and will make it ready to go once more.

Photographed by Tom Newton.